Dolpo! The word conjures up visions of mysterious monasteries of snow leopards and blue sheep. Dolpo is the Land beyond the Himalaya. Laying in western Nepal, Dolpo is one of the most remote of Nepal’s regions. The arid landscape between the Dhaulagiri massif and Tibetan plateau is rich in ancient Tibetan Buddhist culture. Various artistic monasteries including Shey- Gumpa, enrolled in prayers flags and traditional lifestyles of the local ethnic communities are in the pristine form, free of modern influence. By special permit, we are able to offer this-day trek through upper and lower Dolpo. Our route follows much of the route taken by Peter Mathieson and George Schaller as described in “The snow Leopard”. We trek 200 miles, averaging 10 miles a day. We spend 6-8 hours a day trekking. Several layover days are planned. Porters carry a daypack with the things you need for the day. Participants should be in good shape. We are at high elevation much of the time on this trip. Five passes, over 16,500 feet, are crossed. Steep climbs and descents are made.
The Upper Dolpo Trek to Shey Gompa brings you into a mystical land where centuries old Buddhist and Bonpo traditions, interwoven with shamanistic influences, are still an important part of daily life. The villages, Gompas and people you meet during this trek will leave an unforgettable impression on you. The landscapes here are even more desolate than on the Dolpo Circuit and the villages even more isolated and pure. We will follow the clockwise route during our trek.
Day 01: Arrival
On arrival at Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will receive you. Meet assists and transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu
(Option for sightseeing)
Day 03: Trek Preparation day/Free day for special permit.
Day 04: Flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj
Today, we will take an early 1-hour domestic flight to Nepalgunj. The city is a steaming hot in the lowlands of Terai. We can take a cycle rickshaw for a ride to explore the town. We pass the hustle and bustle of the market and see horse carts full of colorful people going to or coming from the Indian border. The Bageshowri temple is one of Nepal’s most important Hindu temples and is worth a visit as well. Overnight stay at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 05: Flight from Nepalgunj to Juphal (2475 m), walk to Chhepka (2838 m); (5-6) Hrs.
About 35 minutes flight to Juphal over steep mountain ridges with beautiful views of snowcapped mountains. The airport is just a gravel airstrip amidst the mountains, which guarantees a spectacular landing. Stepping out of the plane, we enter in a completely different world. From a hot city in the plains, we arrive in a small mountain village, situated in the midst of the Himalaya, breathing in crispy cold air. From here, we will walk down over a small path among fields with wheat and vegetables to the Thuli Bheri River, which we will follow reaching it. There is the small village of Suligat, where we could stop for a tea. The path follows the Suli Khola River now. Behind us, we can see a part of the Dhaulagiri Range. We will pass small villages along the way, like Kageni (2413 m) and Sangta (2520 m). The path surrounded by pine trees, spruce, fir, juniper, cypress and passes small bamboo forests and walnut trees. At the end of the day, we reach Chhepka, a small village, surrounded by fields of millet and wheat.
Day 06: Chhepka to Chunuwar/Amchi Hospital (3110 m); Trek (5-6) Hrs.
The path goes through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broadleaf trees mixed in as well. It is following the river all the time and most of it is Nepali flat: sometimes going up and sometimes going down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descents. At some parts, the valley gets very narrow and the impressive steep rocks are toouring high above you on both sides. On the way we encounter local people with their mules or dzopas (crossbreed between yak and cow) loaded with things to sell. After about four hours, we pass the village of Rechi, where there is a camping spot. At the other side of the bridge, there is a small teashop. The path continues at the other side of the bridge. It is two hours more to Chunuwar. Close to Chunuwar you can find the Amchi Hospital. This is a very interesting place and worth a visit. In fact, it is more a clinic, which frequented by local people. Amchi is a doctor who is educated in traditional Tibetan medicine and lama (monk) as well. Tibetan medicine has a tradition of thousands of years and uses techniques as pulse analysis and urine analysis for diagnosis. For treatment, they use medicines made up of herbs and minerals along with physical therapies, like Tibetan acupuncture. In the Amchi Hospital, we can see the collection of herbs and minerals used to cure people. Most Dolpa people prefer to visit the Amchi over a regular doctor when they are ill. A donation is highly welcomed to keep this tradition living.
Day 07 Chunuwar/Amchi Hospital to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3641 m); Trek (2-3) Hrs.
Today, we will do a short hike to Ringmo and the Phoksundo Lake. It includes a long and sometimes steep climb of about 2 hours. Just before the top, we can see Nepal’s highest waterfall, a spectacular waterfall of 167 meters high, the Phoksundo Waterfall (also called Suligad Waterfall). From the pass, we have our first view of the Phoksundo Lake. The path is going down until it gets close to the river, which we will follow until we reach Ringmo, a charming village. People practice the Bonpo religion here. Bonpo related to Buddhism, but it is an older than Buddhism and goes back thousands of years. The founder of this religion was Buddha Tonpa Shenrab Miwo about more than 18,000 years ago. It believes that Dolpa used to be the centre of the Bon kingdom; called Zhang Zhung, a big and powerful kingdom in present Western and Northwestern Tibet and surroundings, as in Dolpa we can still find a big concentration of Bonpo practices. In the 7th Century, the Buddhist kingdom of Tibet defeated Zhang Zhung, and Bonpo disappeared almost completely. However many Bon traditions were absorbed into Tibetan culture. Bonpo has more animistic aspects than Buddhism. For outsiders it is difficult to see the difference between Bonpo and Buddhism, but one small but important detail is that we have to cross their shrines, like mani walls (low walls with loose stones with Buddhist mantra’s carved on it) and chortens anti clockwise, while according to Buddhist custom, we pass them clockwise. The women wear dark or checked dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. We see few men in the typical dress, which is a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down. Strolling around the village, we might see women weaving. In Ringmo women make very nice woven products, like belts, bags, shawls and blankets. Most of the items are made from cotton, but they also sell products made from yak wool. There are a few shops where we can buy these. These shops serve as a general shop as well, and we can fill up our stocks of biscuits for the rest of the trek. Ringmo lies at the shore of the holy Phoksundo Lake. This lake is of a stunning beauty. It has an enchanting deep blue color and is emerald green close to the shore. The water is clear, with no aquatic life in it. Steep cliffs and snowcapped mountains surround the lake. The colors change a bit during the day; we just will not get enough of simply looking at it. At the shore of the lake, there is a wonderful campsite. At the other shore, there is a beautiful Bonpo Monastery, which we can visit. In the monastery, we can observe a statue of Tonpa Shenrab Miwo, the founder of Bonpo religion, who lived thousands of years ago. Ringmo has a few guesthouses: Sherpa Hotel and Lodge, Trekkers Lodge, Himalaya Hotel, Shey Shikhar Hotel and Shey Phoksundo Hotel. Besides, we can camp at the shores of Phoksundo Lake.
Day 08: Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3641 m), free day
It is indispensable to have an extra day in Ringmo, as our body needs time to acclimatize to the higher altitude. As the Phoksundo Lake is such a beautiful place, it is a perfect place for a free day. The beautiful Phoksundo Lake, Thasung Choling Gompa, a Bon Monastery, Ringmo Village, peak of Kanjirowa Range in the back drop from the Monastery, various monasteries, chortens reward the trekkers with the beauty of nature and long back culture. Stay overnight at the tented camp.
Day 09: Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake to Chunemba (3639 m); Trek (5-6) Hrs.
Today, we will enter to the restricted area of Inner Dolpo. We will follow the famous Demons Trail from the movie Himalaya (Caravan) of Eric Valley, a beautiful movie about the life of people in Dolpa who bring their yaks over difficult passes bearing salt from Tibet to trade with grain from the lowlands. In the movie, this trail had used during the salt caravan and one of the yaks falls in the lake here. It is a spectacular trail, going high above the lake. At some parts, it gets very narrow due to landslides. The trail climbs to a ridge, from which we have a spectacular view on the lake, Ringmo, the dark green pine forests and the snowcapped mountain Norbung Kang (6085 m) to the south. It is now a gradual descend to the lake’s northern shore, which is a good place for lunch. After this, the trail climbs through a wide valley, crossing some streams. We have a splendid and nearby view to the flanks and tops of the snowcapped Kanjirowa Himal (6612 m).We arrive at an alpine area with junipers, called Chuneba or Lakeside camp, which is a good place to camp.
Day 10: Chunemba to Snowfields Camp (4400 m); Trek (6-7) Hrs.
The Phoksundo Valley gets quite narrow now, with high rock walls on both sides. We have to cross a couple of streams. After about half an hour, we leave the main valley and enter a narrow gorge. It is a long, pretty steep climb through the steep sided valley. The campsite is at Snowfields Camp, a name given by Peter Mathiesson in his famous book the Snowleopard. It is at the foot of the pass that will bring us into the heart of Inner Dolpo tomorrow.
Day 11: Snowfields Camp to Shey Gompa (4310 m) via Nagdalo La Pass (5350 m); Trek (6-7) Hrs.
It is a long, strenuous climb of about 2½ hours over a dusty path to Kang La (5350 m), locally also called Ngadra La. Prayer flags, and cairns mark the pass. At the north side of the pass, there is snow most of the times, which makes descend a bit difficult. It is steep at the first 45 minutes, but after this, it is going gradually for about 3 hours, until we reach Shey Gompa. Getting nearer, we pass red and white chortens and mani walls. Shey Gompa is a very small village, with a couple of houses, and of course the gompa (monastery). The 11th century gompa is located beneath the Crystal Peak on a small grassy plain, at the confluence of two rivers. It is believe to be constructed by a Tibetan Buddhist, who arrived here on the back of a flying snow lion. It is a magical place, and Shey Gompa is often called the spiritual heart of Dolpa. Every year hundreds of pilgrims come to visit the gompa and to make a kora (clockwise circuit) of the Crystal Peak. People living here are direct descendents of Tibetans, which we can notice easily by their faces and their dress. The women wear dark dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. Men wear a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down.
Day 12: Rest day Shey Gompa (4310 m)
During this day, we can go to Tsakang Gompa (4575 m), a monastery from the Buddhist Kagyupa sect. This gompa appears in the movie Himalaya as well. It is spectacularly located high on a red rocky slope. The trail to Tsakang Gompa partly follows the same trail as pilgrims follow to make a Kora of the Crystal Peak. We will probably see flocks of blue sheep in these areas. Many blue sheep live here, as the abbot of Shey gompa imposed a ban on hunting them. Besides, in these regions we have the best chance of seeing the snow leopard.
Day 13: Shey Gompa to Namgung (4430 m) via Shey La (5000 m); Trek (6-7) Hrs.
Another pass to cross today, the Shey La, also called Gelu La, of 5000 m. The climb to the pass goes through a narrow valley. From the pass we have a good view to the north of the arid Tibetan Plateau, which is stretching out seemingly endlessly before we. To the east, we can see Mustang. After the pass, it is a long descend to the pastures of Namgung. Scattered in the landscape, we will see some fields, many times with a big Tibetan tent, as the fields are too far from the village to go there and go back each day. The people in Namgung are very friendly and open. A friendly Tashi Delek (Tibetan greeting) will always be welcomed with a big smile.
Day 14 Namgung to Saldang (4060 m); Trek (3-4) Hrs.
It is a short hiking day today. The path goes high above the Namgung Khola (River) and then descends steeply to the village of Saldang. Saldang is the largest settlement of inner-Dolpo. It is a spread out, traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. Barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow in this barren landscape. Besides, people live from what the yak gives them (cheese, meat, wool) and from trade. Saldang is close to the Tibetan border and some of the salt trade caravans pass through Saldang. The trading of salt for grain and rice is a century old tradition that still prevails in inner-Dolpo. The people from Saldang are semi-nomadic. In the warm months, they trek in the highlands with their herds of yaks and sheep. The ones who are better off let the pure nomadic people of Dolpa, the Drokpa, do this work. Sometimes we can see a camp of the Drokpa in these areas.
Day 15: Saldang to Sibu (4200 m); Trek (4-5) Hrs.
It is an easy walk to Sibu, following the Namgung Khola southwards and passing little villages, like Namdo, along the way. The village is surrounded by terraced fields of barley. The path goes alongside many mani walls, chortens and some gompa’s, which makes we realize how important Buddhism is for the people of Inner Dolpo. Buddhism is inte rwoven in every aspect of people’s life here.
Day 16: Sibu to Lagmo Che (4570 m); Trek (4-5) Hrs.
The trail starts with an easy stretch, following the river. The last village we pass is Raka. After this, we enter a large, inhabited valley. We may see blue sheep in this area. Besides, we may even come across a snow leopard. After 2 hours of trekking, the path turns away from the river and climbs steeply to a meadow of about 4570 m, which is often used by yaks to graze. This is Lagmo Che, the base camp for climbing to the Jeng La.
Day 17: Lagmo Che to Tokyu (4209 m) via Jeng La (5110 m); Trek (7-8) Hrs.
It is a steep climb of about 2 hours to reach the next pass: Jeng La at 5110 m. From the pass, we have a spectacular view of the Dhaulagiri (8167 m) and many other snowcapped mountains. After the pass, we descend into the Tarap Valley. We arrive at the village Tokyu (4209), a spread out village, which is the first human settlement after Raka. Tokyu is said to be the highest permanent settlement in the world. The gompa is worth a visit and has a beautiful statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha.
Day 18: Tokyu to Dho Tarap (4080 m); Trek (2-3) Hrs.
Dho Tarap is pretty near from Tokyu. On the way, we pass the Cristal Mountain School, which is educating children from Dho and surroundings. A French NGO sponsors it. If you want, we can visit the school, the teachers are very pleased to show us the surroundings. From the school it is about half an hour to Dho. At the entrance, we pass a beautiful gate chorten. In addition, the people of Dho are direct descendents of Tibetans. Besides the typical dark dresses with colorful aprons, most Dho women wear bracelets of big shells and some have beautiful silver and turquoise headgear. Most men have long hair, with a red ribbon in their hair, in the style of Tibetan Khampas. Besides they wear the long coat, from which one sleeve is hanging down. The people in Dho are very friendly and it is easy to make contact. With the Cristal Mountain School so close by, especially most wenger ones do speak a bit English. Dho Tarap is a traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. Yaks are used to plough the land. As in the other villages, we came across, barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow here. However, nowadays, small greenhouses enable the people to grow some green vegetables as well. Besides, people live from what the yak gives them and from trade. The houses are made of stones found in the river valley and are in typical Tibetan style, with small windows and the flat roofs stocked with firewood. Close to Dho are two monasteries that are worth a visit. Ribo Bhumpa Gompa, right on the hill behind Dho, and Shipchaur Gompa, which is in the village Shipchok, 30 minutes walking from Dho. Ribo Bhumpa Gompa belongs to Nyingmapa Buddhism, by the local people called Chöba Buddhism. Inside we find a beautiful big statue of Guru Rinpoche. Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) is a very important Buddhist saint from the 7th century AD. Next to the gompa is a chorten with another chorten inside, which is said to hold the remains of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche. Shipchaur Gompa in Shipchok belongs to Bonpo Buddhism. It is an interesting gompa to visit, as we do not see many Bonpo gompa’s. Unfortunately, Shipchaur Gompa is in a rather bad shape, and in need of restoration. Dho has a big campsite close to the river, and some guesthouses (one with a campsite) where we can stay.
Day 19: Dho Tarap to Sisaul (3750 m); Trek (4-5) Hrs.
A short day today again, so we have all the time to explore Dho in the morning. Leaving Dho Tarap, we come along many mani walls and small chortens. The path is going down, following the Tarap Khola. Gradually we can see the landscape changing. Some bushes are appearing, it is getting a bit greener. Just before arriving at Sisaul, we have to climb to a small pass. After the pass, the valley gets narrow. It is a short descend to Sisaul, which has a good campsite next to a tent-hotel. We can choose to camp here, or on one of the spots a bit further down.
Day 20: Sisaul to Laina Odar (3370 m); Trek (7-8) Hrs.
Soon after leaving Sisaul, we climb to a small pass with a nice chorten. After the pass, we will see the first trees again. We mostly walk in the river valley with high rocks towering above us on both sides. The landscape is still barren and this is our last chance to see the bluesheep or snowleopard. It is an easy walk of about 3 to 3½ hours from Sisaul to Nawarpani. The path gradually goes down. At some parts, the path carved beautifully out of the rock, so that we find ourselves walking in a kind of three-sided tunnel. After Nawarpani, the landscape gets quickly greener and the path sometimes goes through pine forests, with a wonderful smell. It is an easy walk over a large path, which sometimes goes very high above the river. We reach Laina Odar, which is our campsite.
Day 21: Laina Odar to Lingdo (2391 m); Trek (5-6) Hrs.
From Laina Odar the trail goes down pretty steep to Laisicap (2772 m). The path goes partly through forests and we are surrounded by steep cliffs full of pine trees, mostly spruce, fir, juniper and cypress, some of which are huge. Sometimes the river is far below us. The walk to Laisicap takes about 3 hours. At Laisicap we cross Thuli Bheri River over a large suspension bridge of 120 meter, high above the river. The trail goes down pretty steep for about 45 minutes. After this, it is an easy walk, gradually going down, with some flat parts as well. The landscape is impressive and sometimes very green. The sharp rocks are dotted with junipers and other pine trees. If we are lucky, we can see groups of large grey monkeys here. Behind us, we can see the beautiful snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m). Getting closer to Lingdo, we can see some other villages in the distance, like Sarakot, which is situated high on a cliff. These are the first villages we see after Dho Tarap. We pass some mani walls and chortens. Lingdo is a small village with one guesthouse with a camping site. The people who live in this region are Tarali’s, a Magar group (who are Buddhist as well).
Day 22: Lingdo to Dunai (2140 m); Trek (5-6) Hrs.
It will be an easy walk today. The first part goes through rough landscape. The path sometimes carved out of the rocks, and at a few points very narrow. Trekking here seems a huge challenge. After about 2 ½ hours we will reach the small village of Byasgar (2427 m). After Byasgar, the landscape gets greener and sometimes reminds to the European Alps. Rocky slopes are dotted with pine trees, mostly blue pine. At the horizon, we see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294m). The path goes slightly up and down, following the Thuli Bheri River, once and a while passing a couple of houses. Dunai is the headquarters of Dolpa District. It is a large village, of about 2.500 people, more or less half Hindu and half Buddhist. Up the hill, there is a Buddhist monastery, the Dolpa Kendriya Gompa, which is worth a visit. It is situated at the slope at the other site of the river, overlooking Dunai. The monastery belongs to the Nyingmapa lineage, the oldest Buddhism linage and was built in 1998. There is only one monk/lama. If he is there, he will be happy to open the monastery for us and show us around. Inside the gompa we can observe a beautiful statue of Sakyamuni Buddha (Gautama Buddha), the Kengyur (the holy scriptures of Buddhism) and big thankas (Buddhist paintings on cotton). There is a small daily puja (prayer ceremony) from 6-7 am and from 6-7 pm.
Day 23: Dunai to Juphal (2475 m); Trek (3-4) Hrs.
It is a short walk to Juphal. After about 45 minutes, we reach a beautiful gate chorten (stupa), which is the entrance to the VDC (Village Development Committee) Dunai. Inside the chorten we can observe some beautiful Buddhist paintings of mandala’s and important Buddhist figures. We reach a suspension bridge. From the bridge, it is about 2½ – 3 hours to Juphal. The first part goes over a large path, passing through the small village of Kalagaonda. Then we leave the main road and walk over a small path, through fields of barley and wheat, with walnut, peach and apricot trees. It is a steep climb to reach Juphal. Just before arriving, we pass the Hindu village Dangiwada. Juphal is a large village with a small bazaar where it is nice to spend some time looking around.
Day 24: Fly from Juphal to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj
Today we will end our trek and return to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj connecting flight. Overnight stay at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 25: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 26: Final international departure
After breakfast, we will transfer you the international airport for final see off.